Southwold (still) Britain's undiscovered seaside gem
A few years ago there was a huge amount of publicity surrounding Southwold, the seaside town that had not changed since the 50s. I expected its unspoilt nature to be only a transitory thing as commercial interests sought to extract as much as possible from the town's 'discovery' by the press. Fortunately this has not happened.
Southwold is still a picture perfect seaside town on the Suffolk coast. It is the kind of resort many people will remember from childhood holidays: golden sand, buckets and spades, ice cream, fish and chips on the pier and Punch and Judy. It has retained an old fashioned charm, but has also moved with the times in a good way. On the main street, there is a selection of shops, including a delicatessen, some art galleries and great eating places.
Southwold's reputation as a quiet resort goes back more than a century. The town's main link with civilisation was a narrow gauge railway which opened in 1879. In the early years of the twentieth century, Southwold was recommended to holiday makers as an ideal place to escape the crowds.
In the interwar years, the Duke of York (later King George VI) chose Southwold as a site for a social experiment. He invited 200 public school boys to join 200 less well off boys at a holiday camp there.
Today Southwold is known for its beach huts, beer, pier and golden sands. There is very little commercial style entertainment. You will find no amusement arcades. On Southwold's traditional pier though, there is a surprise in the 'Under the Pier Show'. Its strange collection of bizarre and fascinating amusements promise everything from the 'Bathescope', the 'Auto Frisk' and cures for every ailment, but offering good family fun in exchange for some small change.
Southwold has one of the finest collections of beach huts of any English seaside town. They mix bright colours and pastel shades. Many are privately owned and proudly display a selection of bizarre and interesting names. One is adorned with paintings of seagulls and seaside life.
If you want to fully experience Southwold life, hire a beach hut for a day for £18 or for a week for £90; but expect to pay a small fortune if you want to own one.
If you find Southwold too busy, Walberswick, just along the coast from Southwold is a charming old fashioned village. It is even more old fashioned than Southwold. Walberswick plays host to the British Open Crabbing Championships every year. It is a good walk from Southwold across the River Blyth, which can either be crossed by foot ferry or a footbridge, but well worth the effort.
Southwold has its own brewery, Adnam's and you'll find it on draught in most of the pubs and restaurants in the town and beyond. There is a fine selection of hotels and some traditional looking B&Bs on the front, as well as in the town and the nearby village of Reydon.
Southwold - top tips
Parking
You can park for free on the common, turn right by the Red Lion pub. However, get there early on sunny days.
Nostalgia
Catch a vintage bus, made in the 1950s at Lowestoft Coach Works outside the Randolph Hotel in Southwold. See www.tillystours.co.uk for more information.
Seaside history
The British seaside holiday
The film is narrated by Geoffrey Palmer.
Thanks,
Frances Harper
Producer" Frances Harper 05/01/2012